The 2007 Shiraz Max’s Garden comes from Heathcote. A glass-coating opaque purple color, the nose offers up violets, cigar box, black currant, and blueberry leading to a restrained, relatively elegant Shiraz with the structure to evolve for 2-3 years. Drink it from 2011 to 2019. Michael Twelftree’s Two Hands negociant label is solid but not quite up to the standards established by the past several years because of the challenging 2007 and 2008 vintages in South Australia. The wines are discussed in the order in which they were presented. The Garden Series is designed to highlight Shiraz from a diversity of appellations (or GIs as they are known in Australia).Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com

This ambitious offering from Two Hands is a bit of dissappointment. The bold black cherry fruit seems slightly cooked or raisiny, and there’s a grassy, herbal element as well. But it’s also nicely concentrated and weighty, with a mouthwatering finish that redeems it.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 86