I don’t know how Rosenblum does it! With so many different Zinfandel bottlings, the Rhone Ranger category, standard Bordeaux varietals as well as a few whites, it is remarkable that his wines seem to get better and better regardless of vintage conditions. This is the twenty-fifth rendition of this stunning wine value that is better than many full-throttle Zinfandels that sell for twice the price. The non-vintage Zinfandel Vintner’s Cuvee XXV exhibits a deep ruby color in addition to a beautifully sweet nose of black cherries, raspberries, pepper, earth, and spice. Rich and medium-bodied, with soft tannin and well-integrated acidity, this beauty will drink well for 2-3 years. Frugal-minded consumers are likely to make case purchases.Tel. (510) 865-7007

Zinfandel enthusiasts have long admired the amazing job Rosenblum Cellars does with such a diverse array of Zinfandel grapes. In 1994, Rosenblum has again hit the jackpot with a bevy of textbook Zinfandels.Year in and year out one of the best values in Zinfandel is the N.V. Vintner's Cuvee Zinfandel. This year's offering, XII, is a dark ruby/purple-colored wine with plenty of peppery, jammy black-cherry and raspberry fruit, medium to full body, a fleshy texture, wonderful sweetness and generosity, and a low acid, soft finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. NOTE: All the wines in this article were tasted in May, 1996.Tel. (510) 865-7007

Shrewd consumers looking for a great bargain should check out the N.V. Vintner's Cuvee. It is loaded with delicious super-ripe berry fruit, displays a soft texture, and a mouthfilling, generous finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. This winery has endeared itself to Zinfandel fans for its luscious, intensely fruity, rich, full-bodied style of winemaking. Interestingly, the owner of Rosenblum Cellars is also a veterinarian, but no dogs are to be found in his current portfolio. Tel. 415-865-7007.

Raspberry and cherry fruit dominate the non-vintage Zinfandel Vintner's Cuvee XXII. A textbook Zinfandel, with medium body, good spice and purity, and a supple texture, it is best drunk over the next 2-3 years.Tel. (510) 865-7007

The Vintner's Cuvee XVIII is a light-bodied wine exhibiting tart acidity, and an abrupt finish. It should be consumed over the next 6-12 months. Tel. (510) 865-7007

Sweet-sour cherry aromas are an interesting introduction. On the light side, with substantial tartness, it still offers varietally correct fruit and constitutes a good quaff at a realistic price.——J.C.(2/1/2000)—— 84