The finest white wine I enjoyed in 2019 was a pristinely preserved bottle of Coche-Dury's 1990 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, a stunning achievement that soars from the glass with scents of orange oil, Anjou pear and ripe citrus fruit mingled with notions of honeycomb, freshly baked bread, praline and cinnamon. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, this is a concentrated, elegantly muscular wine of immense depth and dimension, its ample and layered core of fruit built around racy acids and beautifully rendered dry extract. Fully mature but in no danger of decline, this is one of the greatest bottles I've drunk from Jean-Fran?ois Coche.