The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru won't be released for several years—indeed, the 2014 went on the market only a few months ago—but it is already a wine to be eagerly anticipated. Unwinding in the glass with a deep but youthfully reserved bouquet of citrus oil, ripe pear, toasted sesame and smoke, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with a muscular, concentrated and tight-knit core and a long, intensely mineral finish. Coche's decision to hold back the wine for several years is to be applauded, because this legend-in-the-making needs and deserves time.