Rich, deep and complex aromas of black fruits are found in the nose of the 2003 Moulin-a-Vent Elevee en Fut de Chene. Hugely concentrated, intense, and medium to full-bodied, it reveals a satin-textured core of plums, black cherries, violets, black raspberries, and blackberries. This structured, rich, sappy wine was tasted blind with my tasting group (The Wine Nerds), which includes serious collectors and wine professionals. Readers who remain skeptical about the 2003s should know that not a single member of the group guessed Beaujolais, believing it was a top-flight Hermitage or Burgundy. Bravo!Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121