The Duboeufs’ 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Fut de Chene is as usual drawn from what they feel are some of their most promising vineyards sources, with the barriques of assorted origins and ages being delivered to the participating vignerons for elevage. I still struggle to find much virtue in the volatility and the rather pasted-on sense of resin, lanolin, and mocha that toasted wood conveys here to a manifestly ripe abundance of dark berries; or (especially) in the tendency for that wood to dry-out that fruit in this cuvee’s finish. All that said, we have here undeniably concentrated, brown-spiced blackberry and cassis that convey mid-palate sap and bittersweet persistence. I advise monitoring carefully if you are tempted to cellar any even for 2-3 years. (Like the corresponding Carquelins, it wasn’t expected to be bottled until September.)George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463