The 2010 El Recio sports a more mature gentleman on the label: same cap, stare just as intense as El Picaro, but with a little smugness. The wine comes from 90- to 100-year-old vines that are treated biodynamically and is aged in used French oak barrels for 14 months. It has an attractive, understated bouquet of earthy dark berry fruits, briary and wild hedgerow that is natural and well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe dark berries, mulberry and a saline note that is very generous. It needs a little more delineation towards the mocha-tinged finish, although it has impressive volume and weight in the mouth. Importer: Askari O.H. LLC, Texas; www.askarioh.com