With more structure, density, richness, and delineation than the Esprit, the spectacular 2002 Indigene (56% Shiraz and 44% Mourvedre) represents an Australian version of Paso Robles’ Tablas Creek cuvees. Its dense purple color is accompanied by aromas of scorched earth, tree bark, blackberries, currants, and minerals. The wine’s peppery, full-throttle style possesses wonderful definition as well as purity. While it cuts a huge swath across the palate, it is neither heavy nor overdone. Drink this beauty now and over the next dozen years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228