The dense 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard (93% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Petit Verdot and Malbec) offers sweet creme de cassis aromas interwoven with scorched earth, espresso roast, and licorice. Full-bodied as well as elegant with sweet tannin, gorgeous purity, and admirable depth, this effort has developed beautifully since I tasted it last year. It appears to have 25 or more years of aging potential. The Freestone Vineyard, a 100-acre, cool climate site planted on the Sonoma Coast by Joseph Phelps, is finally coming into production, offering consumers a bevy of different Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. There are three Chardonnay offerings, all of which emphasize the minerality and citrusy characteristics of this varietal with little intrusive oak, despite the fact that they are barrel-fermented and aged primarily in new French oak. The Cabernet Sauvignon program consists of three wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon, their famous proprietary red wine called Insignia, and their single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the western hillsides of Oakville, called Backus. The regular Cabernet is a solidly made, reliable effort usually comprised of about 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot, and occasionally Malbec. The single vineyard offering comes from Oakville’s Backus Vineyard. There are typically 1,500-2,500 cases produced from this biodynamically farmed vineyard.Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

From a steep hillside vineyard on the lower slopes of the Vaca Mountains in Oakville emerges the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard, which is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. This is a deeper, more primordial, richer and more masculine style of wine than the Insignia. The 2005 reveals surprisingly sweet tannin (tannin management can be an issue in certain vintages), gorgeously dark blackberry and cassis fruit, a hint of Graves-like scorched earth and volcanic undertones, and a full-bodied, powerful, concentrated, multi-layered mouthfeel. This is extremely youthful, has 14.6% natural alcohol, and seems set for another 30 years of evolution.

Shows off a distinctive minty herbal character and is dry and firmly structured on the palate, with glimpses of red currant and black cherry peaking through. Yet this is tight, focused, concentrated and balanced, and once it's past this phase, it should provide plenty of excitement. Best from 2011 through 2017. 1,600 cases made. -JL

Price be damned, this is an authentically gorgeous, important Cabernet Sauvignon. It calls to mind the amazing 2001, with its huge, perfect tannins and acids and artistic applique of new oak. But the star of the show surely is the fruit. Mounds of ripe blackberries and cherries pile up, veering into currants and cassis and something wild and decadently animal, like charred meat. Fabulous now despite the firm tannins, and should evolve for many years.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 97