The 2009 CHARDONNAY “ESTATE” is fermented in French oak and aged in barriques for 3-4 months. A bit funky on the nose, particularly on opening, it nonetheless shows solidly on the mid-palate and the oak is well integrated. It arguably handles the oak in a more appealing fashion than its higher priced siblings, the Kapnias and Cava Dryos , reviewed this issue. The slight funk, which I thought might be a trace reductive, seemed largely to blow off with air. Assuming that trend continues with some extra time, that’s the only quibble. This is otherwise pretty nice for the price and many will wonder why they should bother to trade up. It has some bite on the finish, which lingers in appealing fashion. It comes in at just 12% alcohol. Drink it young and fresh. Drink now-2012. Hatzimichalis makes a wide variety of brands, and dabbles extensively in international grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. They have a pretty nice touch with those grapes—although I thought their Chards were a bit better in the last round of reviews. I’m sure they will take flack for their focus on international grapes rather than indigenous ones. The lower level wines are usually very nice values, though. Some of the prestige labels, some of which are not imported, are usually single vineyard wines and can struggle to justify their extra cost.Importer: Athenee Importers & Distributors LTD., Hempstead, N.Y.; tel: (516) 505-4800

There are touches of richness to the gooseberry and grapefruit flavors. Finishes with notes of honey cream. Chardonnay and Robola. Drink now through 2014. 765 cases made. -KM