The 1989 Marcenasco Conca is as smoky as the 1989 Barolo Marcenasco, with a touch more herbaceousness in the nose. Fatter and riper, with oodles of seductively rich black-cherry fruit wrapped in a smoky, tar-tinged package, this is a wine to drink in its first decade of life. Although the aromatic and flavor profile of the Nebbiolo grape is completely different from Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir share an intense, sweet fragrance, textural chewiness, and expansiveness that contribute to these varietals' seductiveness. This firm boasts a brilliant record of producing a creamy-textured, ripe, fat, round, generous, sexy style of Barolo that is a thrill to drink young or old. The 1989s and 1990s are Ratti's most successful vintages since 1978. The late Renato Ratti was one of the most influential voices in Piedmont, urging his fellow producers to pursue a strategy aimed at higher quality, knowing full well that the only way Barolo could make a name for itself in the international marketplace was because of the greatness and individuality of its wines. Ratti's Barolos have long been a model for the elegant, graceful, rich, supple style of Barolo that can be drunk when released. While a handful of critics have suggested these are wines that must be drunk up early, while working on this article I re-tasted bottles of 1978 from my cellar that were marvelous. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.