Neumayer’s 2010 Gruner Veltliner Engelberg is brightly-focused, dominated by fresh lime, and finishes buoyantly and refreshingly, with pungent herbal, apple pip, and chalky impingement. Undeniably, this exhibits traits familiar from Riesling and from Sauvignon Blanc as much as of Gruner Veltliner. To the extent that a wine can be both austere and exuberant, this one is. I would plan on enjoying it over the next couple of years. Ludwig Neumayer de-acidified at the lower end of his portfolio, especially in Riesling, but the results retain plenty of pep and incisive refreshment. Given the high extract that resulted from lots of rain, he notes, there was lots of buffering for the acids, and the thick skins and paucity of juice also had an ameliorative effect on acidity, effectively enhancing skin contact even in those grapes that were almost immediately pressed. “In fact,” notes Neumayer, “the material was so dense that you could only press very slowly.” Although his top Rieslings fermented through February, like the rest of this collection they were bottled already in April.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA www.winemonger.com