The ’98 Klipsun, from a premier vineyard on Red Mountain, is even better than the ’97. It has a richness and ripeness in the cherry-flavored fruit, but retains the extra dimensions that Red Mountain soil imparts: flavors of iron, mineral and chalk. It’s just a little hot in the finish, but not distractingly so. This is a very cleanly made wine, with no earthiness to it. As with all Seven Hills wines, it’s built to age, though fine for near-term enjoyment. Editors’ Choice.——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 92