The Trimbach 2008 Pinot Gris Reserve delivers an exhilarating sense of sheer primary fruit juiciness (suggesting peach, blood orange, and grapefruit) that you will scarcely encounter from its grape outside of the 2008 vintage. What’s more the sheer density and penetration rival the performance of the corresponding Rieslings, but at the same time, this wine’s glycerin-richness and succulent sense of ripeness make it altogether more winsome and luscious today than its Riesling counterparts. Pungency of citrus peel and black tea smokiness add to the intrigue of a finish that compels the next sip. It’s hard to imagine (at the anticipated retail price of this release) a much more exceptional value in versatile Alsace Pinot Gris. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400