Not many southern Rhone producers made good wines in 1991 or 1992, but Vidal-Fleury has three attractive offerings. The 1991 Cotes du Rhone Villages (all from the hilltop village of Cairanne) is a full-bodied, deep, chocolatey, smoky, fat, and viscous wine that must be tasted to be believed. Unlike most of the vegetal, washed-out 1991s, this offering should drink well for 5-6 years. It certainly proves that vintage charts are not to be followed blindly. This wine was tasted between June 1 and June 16, 1996.