The 2007 Merlot Walla Walla Valley contains 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot in the blend. It was aged in 56% new French oak for 17 months. Opaque purple in color, it gives up a slightly brooding bouquet of sandalwood, pencil lead, violets, Asian spices, and assorted black fruits. Ripe and full on the palate with plenty of volume, this tasty offering has enough structure to evolve for another 3- years and will have a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2027. Northstar is under the Ste.-Michelle umbrella with the assigned task of producing the company's finest Merlots. Under the direction of David -Merf- Merfeld, Northstar appears to be doing just that.www.northstarmerlot.com

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Part of the Ste. Michelle family, Walla Walla-based Northstar has been focused for two decades on showcasing Merlot. “There’s still not a lot of top-quality Merlot to play with,” notes winemaker David Merfeld apropos options to source this grape from Walla Walla vineyards other than his estate. That the fashion for Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varieties to which this shortage testifies shortchanges Merlot’s Washington potential, is clearly a matter of faith at Ste. Michelle, which has in recent years planted more, including on Northstar’s home property, whose first vines went in just over a decade ago at the time that their imposing production facilities were being built. “I’m proud to be known as Mr. Merlot,” quips Merfeld – a protegee of Jed Steele, whose vision (along with that of Alan Shoup) was behind the origination of Northstar – “and I’m glad we stayed the course” even when this grape’s sheer ubiquity threatened to undermine the project of producing world class wine from it. Fruit sources for Northstar remain diverse, and their range of bottlings has expanded to include many non-Merlots. Active fermentation here is generally not longer than a week, and may finish in barrel depending on the lot. I had the opportunity to barrel-taste several components from the extremely late-harvested 2011 season, finding sap and energetic promise, though in some instances also the seeds of potential sweet-tart bifurcation. Tel. (509) 525-6100

Fruit sources for this limited-production Walla Walla bottling of Northstar Merlot include Leonetti’s Loess vineyard, and Windrow and Anna Marie in the Seven Hills. Thick, lush and richly evocative, it shows Napa-like density. Chocolatey black fruits and baking spices add to the rich midpalate, which qualifies for the often-abused word ‘hedonistic.’——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 94