The 1994 Aglianico del Vulture (made from 100% Aglianico) is a big, weighty, husky, full-bodied wine with a dark garnet/purple color. Explosive levels of black fruits, tar, glycerin, smoke, and alcohol jump from the glass of this hugely impressive, big, chunky, fleshy wine. It can be drunk now and over the next 6-7 years. Readers looking for finesse and elegance will want to bypass this blockbuster. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620