Tiny quantities are made of Coutet's Cuvee Madame, a spectacularly rich Barsac that, along with Yquem, is the quintessential example of what heights a great sweet wine can achieve. The 1988, 1989 and 1990 vintages are nearly perfect wines. The 1990 is the richest and most powerful, but the 1988's extraordinary perfume is other-worldly. All three wines offer a profound bouquet of smoky, toasty new oak combined with honeyed peaches and apricots, as well as coconuts and a touch of creme brulee. With extraordinarily rich, full-bodied, marvelously extracted personalities, as well as wonderful underlying acidity, these are spectacular wines. As a postscript, many readers may not realize that Coutet's Cuvee Madame is only released in great vintages. It is produced from the oldest vines and most botrysized grapes. The first vintage produced was 1943, followed by 1949, 1950, 1959, 1971, 1975, 1981, 1986, and the three vintages reviewed in this issue.