The 2007 Shiraz Bella’s Garden from Barossa Valley was not singing on the day I tasted it. Muted aromatically and compact on the palate, it also appears to be slightly off-dry. Michael Twelftree’s Two Hands negociant label is solid but not quite up to the standards established by the past several years because of the challenging 2007 and 2008 vintages in South Australia. The wines are discussed in the order in which they were presented. The Garden Series is designed to highlight Shiraz from a diversity of appellations (or GIs as they are known in Australia). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com

Ripe, fleshy and generous, but not nearly over the top, with gorgeous cherry, pomegranate, black olive and bay leaf flavors arching beautifully and swirling through the long, supple finish. Best from 2010 through 2017. 6,500 cases made. -HS

Despite an elevated alcohol level of 15.5%, the 2007 Bella’s Garden Shiraz displays a crisp, red raspberry fruitiness framed by cedar and cocoa. It’s surprisingly focused for this level of ripeness, the structure imparted more by acids than tannins. Drink it over the near term.——J.C.(3/1/2010)—— 90