The Carmin de Peumo is the winery flagship and a candidate for Chile’s finest wine. The 2005 Carmin de Peumo Carmenere (I reviewed the 2003 in Issue 171, there was no 2004 produced) is a blend of the best parcels in the Peumo Vineyard. It spent 20 months in French oak and was bottled without fining or filtration. Purple/black in color, this profound effort gives up an amazing aromatic array of wood smoke, scorched earth, leather, espresso, blueberry compote, and blackberry liqueur. This leads to an opulent, extraordinarily rich, nearly over the top, sumptuous wine with deeply hidden structure, exceptional balance, and which manages to remain light on its feet despite its immense power. It can be enjoyed now but will be so much better in 5-7 years. It is a tour de force!Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY; tel. (516) 626-9200

For serious Carmenere, Carmin is at the top of the list. It’s almost late-harvest in terms of richness and ripeness, with earth, leather, mineral, pepper, plum and berry on the nose. Dense and balanced, yet a little on the soft side, with meaty raspberry and plum flavors. Finishes dark, with coffee, toast and leather. A cuddly, chewy wine to drink now for all its power and richness.——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 92