The 2004 Aerope Grenache (90% Grenache and 10% Shiraz) is fashioned from the firm’s finest barrels. Although it boasts beautiful kirsch liqueur notes along with stunning elegance and richness, the day I tasted it, it was more closed and less expressive than some of its less expensive siblings. It didn’t even evolve as it sat in the glass, so I’m sure I saw it at a more diminished state. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

There’s no doubting the quality of this wine, which exudes class and refinement. It’s not as plush as some other Aussie Grenaches, but deftly marries kirsch, vanilla and dried spices into an integrated and complex whole. Firm on the finish, with a bit of a tart edge. ——J.C.(12/15/2006)—— 90