Quintarelli’s deeply-colored 1999 Rosso del Bepi offers an explosion of super-ripe sweet fruit on the nose. Lush and generous on the palate, it displays superb length and a glorious, primary expression of fruit even if it clearly doesn’t have the structure of his more important wines. Quintarelli declassifies his Amarone to Rosso del Bepi in vintages he doesn’t feel merit the Amarone designation. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999