The 2008 Fino En Rama is unfiltered, unfortified Fino from Pedro Ximenez grapes aged under flor for three years. Being unfiltered, everything seems to be one step up – the intensity, aroma, the smoky character and the chalkiness from the soil. The palate is wider, medium- to full-bodied, pungent, crisp and very dry, with an acute bitter note in the finish. 10,000 bottles produced. Drink 2013-2015. Alvear is a family winery created as long ago as 1729 in Montilla (Cordoba), in the appellation of Montilla-Moriles by Diego Alvear, which makes it the oldest working winery in the region. Today the company is still run and owned by the eight generation of the Alvear family. They own 150 hectares of Pedro Ximenez grapes, control a further 200 hectares of vineyards from long-term suppliers, and purchase grapes and wine from local growers. They own 6,000 oak casks of 500- and 600-liter capacity where they age a total three million liters of wine and have enough capacity in vats for over eight million liters. When the Pedro Ximenez grapes ripen properly they reach 14 to 16% alcohol and can produce non-fortified Fino. Even though they use the dynamic soleras and criaderas production method, they also pioneered the production of single-vintage Fino and sweet Pedro Ximenez some 15 years ago. These wines are offered young, mainly the Fino, as it’s difficult to keep the flor alive without refreshing the barrels with younger wine. Imported by Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA, tel. (781) 461-5767; www.jorgeordonez.com

Light and floral, with chamomile and honeysuckle notes out front, followed by quinine, salted butter and jicama accents. Starts gentle but turns bracing on the finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 925 cases imported.??–JM??Region: Spain / Montilla-Moriles Select to Add