The 2009 Chardonnay Howell Mountain is all from the Keyes Vineyard. It reveals a Meursault-like hazelnut character intermixed with notions of crushed rocks, white peaches and honeysuckle. This full-bodied, layered, impressive Chardonnay had its malolactic fermentation blocked, which has preserved the fruit’s ripeness and vivacity. It should drink well for 3-5 years. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.Tel. (800) 963-9698; Fax (707) 963-7633

This is an oaky, leesy Chardonnay, and quite a good one. Although it’s super rich in fruit, it shows a crisply acidic minerality that grounds it and makes it serious. That fruit is wildly forward in pineapple tart, pear butter, Key lime pie and golden apricot.——S.H.(11/1/2010)—— 92