Rendered in tank, the basic Long-Depaquit 2006 Chablis is quite luscious and expressive for a “mere” generic, with orange and grapefruit, fennel, hints of honey, and a clear, refined finish with considerable mineral suggestions shimmering through. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years.The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Lively and fresh, this shows all the crispness of young, unwooded Chardonnay, touched with vanilla and simple green fruits. Drink now.——R.V.(2/1/2008)—— 85