The 1994 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes is a rich, multi-textured, thick, juicy wine with tons of honeyed tangerine and citrusy fruit, medium to full body, superb purity, and a low acid, plump, concentrated finish. Already approachable, it promises to provide even finer drinking over the next 2-5 years. Marc Morey is one of the finest producers in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. In top vintages his wines reveal excellent to outstanding concentration, creamy, honeyed textures, and a style not far removed from one of the great masters of white Burgundy, Michel Niellon. 1994 is a tricky vintage for white Burgundy, with the top wines concentrated and forward, yet their low acidity gives them a beguiling, flattering, up-front style. However, many wines do lack concentration as they were produced from over-cropped vineyards. Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579

Thick and opulent, this showy, full-bodied white Burgundy delivers lots of toasted coconut, caramel, pear and butter flavors. Turns very oaky on the rich finish. Needs time to come together. Best after 1996. 500 cases made. -