As with all his premier crus, Mollard ages his Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes in 25-30% new oak barrels. It displays an elegant sauteed mushroom and mineral-infused nose as well as a refined, medium-bodied, crisply-textured, well-defined, stone, flower, and earth-flavored palate. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. As I stated in my report on the 1995 White Burgundies, I have seen continued progress at this estate since the 1992 vintage. 1996 is no exception to this trend as Bernard Mollard (Marc Morey's son-in-law and the estate's director) crafted his finest wines to date. Mollard's malos started late (normal for this vintage) but only after he heated the cellar. With the '96 vintage he stirred the lees once a week until the malos started because he felt the high levels of acidity needed the additional body provided by this batonnage. All of Mollard's wines were bottled in September, 1997. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

Subtle, subdued and reserved, this classy, minerally, full-bodied Chassagne offers a slick, seductive smoothness of texture, caressing ripe fruit and a wonderful balance between all parts, including acidity and oak. The finish could be a bit more intense. Drink now through 2006. 660 cases made. -PM