One of the more youthfully accessible wines in the range is the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, a pretty wine that opens in the glass with scents of honeyed pear, white flowers, orange oil and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, with fine depth at the core and racy balancing acids, it concludes with a long and nicely defined finish. This is well worth seeking out.

Peach, apple, honey and herb flavors mark this ripe white, showing a garnish of sweet spice. Balanced and easygoing, with a finish tied up neatly with a flourish of citrusy acidity. Drink now through 2023. 540 cases made, 60 cases imported.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is more expressive than the Chenevottes, a mixture of citrus fruit and waxy aromas, a hint of white chocolate underneath. The palate is fresh on the entry, more taut and linear than the Chenevottes, gently building to a spicy-tinged finish that feels controlled but correct. It does not want to do anything spectacular but that makes this all the better. This comes recommended.

A pretty and appealingly layered nose consists of aromas of various green and white fruit, citrus and a hint of wood. The round, delicious and sappy medium-bodied flavors possess equally good energy and persistence if not quite the same delineation or mid-palate density. Still there is much to like here and this is a wine that should drink well young.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Vergers has a more floral nose than the Chenevottes, with hints of white tea infusing the animated citrus fruit, then later passion fruit and dried pineapple. The palate is quite piercing on the entry, bitter lemon mixed with orange rind, perhaps just needing a little more matière on the back palate, since it just tapers in when I would have liked it to have fanned out. More peacock's tail please!