The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers reveals stone, white flower and ripe fruit scents as well as a broad, expansive, medium-bodied, structured core filled with liquid mineral and floral flavors. This delicious wine has exemplary focus and balance. It should be at its best between 1999 and 2006. As I stated in my report on the 1995 White Burgundies, I have seen continued progress at this estate since the 1992 vintage. 1996 is no exception to this trend as Bernard Mollard (Marc Morey's son-in-law and the estate's director) crafted his finest wines to date. Mollard's malos started late (normal for this vintage) but only after he heated the cellar. With the '96 vintage he stirred the lees once a week until the malos started because he felt the high levels of acidity needed the additional body provided by this batonnage. All of Mollard's wines were bottled in September, 1997. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

A pure, racy premier cru of great personality, layered with grass, honey, lime and mineral intensity that makes you pay attention. Serious stuff here--full-bodied, long, deep and very interesting. Balanced finish. Drink now through 2003. 540 cases made. -PM