Michel Gaunoux's 1964 Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots is a magical bottle, soaring from the glass with a complex bouquet of dark berry fruit and plums mingled with incense, grilled ceps, smoked meats and black truffles. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a rich and multidimensional core of fruit, lively acids and a long, sapid finish. This is drinking brilliantly today, yet such are its reserves of concentration and structure that still has a long life ahead of it.