From grapes acquired through long-term contract, and with every aspect of their cultivation and picking supervised by Fevre, the 2007 Chablis Grenouilles offers scents and flavors of peach and grapefruit so ripe and forward that they remind me of the 2006. But this wine harbors a scintillating, tingling acidity and interaction of saline, stony, and somehow crystalline mineral nuances with its ripe fruit, as well as an electric sense of energy culminating in a penetrating finish that are very much of 2007. Suggestions of ripe tomato and wood ash add intrigue, and this tugs at my lower jaw so hard I feel like Pavlov’s proverbial pooches. This should be worth following for the better part of the next decade. Didier Seguier and his team have managed to follow up their amazing 2006s with an equally remarkable collection of 2007s (though he insists that 6 to 9 months after bottling – when I tasted them – “is the worst time for expressing the purity of fruit”!). Harvesting here began early, on September 6 – the earliest start on record save for 2003 – but without feeling any compunction about taking one’s time, Seguier emphasized. Even so, the task was completed in 11 days, harvesting fruit of impeccable ripeness and harmonious though prominent acidity at a time when many growers were wise not to have begun yet. Without question, the rigorous sorting that all of the grapes undergo here is among the keys to the purity and the transparency to nuance of these wines. As usual at this address, even when one reaches the roughly 80% level of barrique (none, new, though) a smell or taste of wood is the farthest thing from one’s mind.Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706