Pure, sweet cherry and red raspberry fruit, accompanied by leather and peat, characterize the accessible Drouhin 2007 Clos Vougeot. Suggestions of chalk, stone, and cherry pit tamp down the wine’s exuberance in the finish while holding out the promise of further depth in a few years. But I do not envision this being a wine to hold for more than 6-8. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Firmly tannic, showing rich black fruits and sweet juicy berry flavors, along with a dry core of structure that promises aging. A powerful wine, it has weight as well as delicious final acidity.——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 94