The 2009 Clos de Vougeot comes across as relatively simple next to the estate’s other grand crus. Subtle floral notes meld into red fruit in this feminine, subtle wine. This shows good energy and fine balance if not quite the complexity or sheer pedigree of some of the wines tasted alongside it. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Veronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770