The floral, white fruit-scented 2003 Riesling Spatlese Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg is broad, ample, and light to medium-bodied. This pure, deep effort reveals loads of cotton candy-laced white fruit flavors. Its personality bursts forth on the palate with the same fervor as pop rocks candies yet, instead of fading away as those sweets did, this wine seamlessly retains its powerful hold on the taster from the attack to the finish. Projected maturity: now-2020. Bravo to Helmut Donnhoff for this magical line-up! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300