The most concentrated of all Jean Boillot's wine, the 1990 Volnay-Fremiets, is voluptuous and fat, with gobs of chewy, sweet, expansive Pinot fruit. Ironically, this muscular Volnay comes from a vineyard adjacent to Pommard. Drink this charming, sexy wine over the next decade. Jean Boillot's red burgundies offer attractive richness, good structure, a generous lashing of toasty new oak, and 5-8 years of longevity. All of these offerings can be, and probably should be, consumed over the near term. A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.