The 2004 Aglianico del Vulture La Firma is sweet and refined, with layers of dark fruit, tobacco, earthiness, roasted coffee beans and chocolate that flow from the glass. It offers outstanding persistence on the palate and a fresh, bright note of mint that frames the finish and provides a lovely counterpoint to some of the darker aromas and flavors. The oak is quite promiment, but has also begun to integrate with the wine. This is a terrific effort from Cantina del Notaio. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Cantina del Notaio is an excellent source for the Aglianicos of the Vulture district in Basilicata. The consulting oenologist is Professor Luigi Moio of the University of Naples, a man who is behind many of the region’s up and coming estates. Readers who purchase the estate’s wines better be sure they are fit....these are some of the heaviest bottles being used today. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411