The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru derives from a new source, but it's as striking as ever, opening in the glass with a classy bouquet of citrus oil, white flowers, fresh pastry and blanched almonds. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, taut and chiseled, with terrific tension, lively acids and a long, chalky finish. This is worth a special effort to seek out.