The 2005 Unfiltered Merlot is a beauty, dark ruby/purple with notes of cassis, plum, a hint of mocha, some truffle, and a long, full-bodied mouthfeel. There is tannin to shed, but the wine is fleshy, pure, and impressive. It should drink nicely for at least 15 or more years. One of the most spectacularly beautiful vineyards, high on the lower slopes of Spring Mountain, is Newton Vineyards. Organically farmed and impeccably manicured, this was one of the first outposts to which famed Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland came, and an entire generation of winemakers formed by his brilliance have emerged from Newton. The overall style of the wine is one built on European elegance and longevity. The vintages from the early 1990s are still doing well, especially the 1990 and 1991. Tel. (707) 963-9000; Fax (707) 944-1123

Bone dry and pretty tannic at the age of four-plus years, this Merlot has interesting flavors of cherries, red currants, Dr. Pepper cola and sweet, smoky oak. The tannins are fierce, but pliant. Should soften and mellow over the next 6–8 years. ——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 89