The 2005 Stature ,the most expensive wine in the K-J hierarchy, is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Malbec that sees one-third American oak and two-thirds French. Perhaps because of that it displays a more noticeable oakiness. It performs like the old Silver Oak Cabernets from the mid-eighties, when they had the concentration to match up to all the oak. Made in a modern, progressive, less classic style than its siblings, it is still very Californian in its opaque ruby/purple color, with a big, sweet kiss of toasty oak intermixed with ripe fruit, low acidity, and sweet tannin. From high elevation Napa vineyards, it is a big wine that should drink well for 10-15 years. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Filled with black and red berries and stone fruits that have a smoky, grilled edge, this dramatic Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend hails from several great vineyards, mainly Stagecoach, which is up on Atlas Peak. It drinks well now at the age of four-plus years, showing lush fruit that’s just beginning to dry out and achieve bottle bouquet. Feels sweet and soft in the mouth. A compelling, complex and nuanced wine of great elegance and allure. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 96