The 2001 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a magical wine, soaring from the glass with scents of peonies, wild berries, orange rind, wilted rose petals and warm spices. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, this has an ample core of fruit, melting tannins and a bright spine of acidity; and it's that spine that distinguishes it from the similarly charming, perfumed but also softer, suppler 2000 vintage. Long and penetrating, this Clos de Vougeot is just entering early maturity.