The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is still quite tight-knit and reserved, opening in the glass with aromas of cassis and wild plums, mingled with notions of smoked meats, incense, rich soil tones and peonies. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and textural, built around an ample chassis of rich and powdery tannins and underpinned by lively acids. This is a muscular young Clos Vougeot that's long and resonant, but which is at least a decade away from its peak, even if it's sufficiently refined to be approached earlier.