Cut from a (well-tailored) modern cloth, the excellent 2007 Dalmau has a dark broody nose with black plum, cassis and cedar. It demonstrates well-integrated oak and fine delineation. The palate is full-bodied with an unashamedly oak-laden entry that suffuses the blackberry, vanilla pod and blueberry notes that sweep over the mouth. There are subtle touches of pain grille and cooked meats underlying the dense black fruit, but what I admire is the focus and freshness maintained from start to finish. It has barely started to show what it can do, but I look forward to tasting this in ten years time. Drink 2018-2030. One of the most famous names in Rioja, Marques de Murrieta was founded in 1852 by Luciano Murrieta, who was inspired by his three-year sojourn in Bordeaux. In 1983 it was purchased by Vicente Dalmau Cebrian-Sagarriga and presently, winemaker Maria Vargas oversees their portfolio that includes both modern and classic styles of Rioja. The 300 hectares of vines on the Ygay Estate in La Rioja Alta allows them to control the quality and within this estate they have singled out specific parcels for their flagship wines. I will start with the white wines. I must confess that I was alarmed by the amount of oxidation shown by the three vintages of Capellania Blanco Reserva that I tasted. Both bottles of the 2005 and 2006 appeared to be excessively oxidized to a degree that I will not pass judgement. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland CA; tel. (510) 587-2000.

This plush, modern red is rich with raspberry and blackberry fruit, garnished with chocolate and spice and a lingering finish of bergamot and lilac. Offers fresh acidity and well-integrated tannins. Drink now through 2015. 300 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Concentrated to the max, with young, closed aromas of coconut, charcoal, mint leaf, leather, hot pavement and black fruit. The palate is juvenile, full and warm, and it delivers a jolt of meaty black fruit, licorice and baking-spice flavors. Toasty late, with no shortage of structure and oak. Should age well for a decade or so.——M.S.(11/1/2010)—— 93