They didn’t bottle Dalmau in 2008, so they are already releasing the 2009 Dalmau Reserva now, which shows a more modern profile than the Reserva or the Castillo de Ygay. It’s a blend of 74% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Graciano from a single vineyard called Canaja, planted in 1950, which yields one kilo of grapes per plant. The different varieties are fermented separately in stainless steel and oak vats. The wine carries out its malolactic fermentation in new Allier barrels, where it matures for a further twenty months, but the varieties are kept separated for the first 13-14 months. The wine is left to settle in concrete vats for six months before being bottled. It displays a dark ruby color, a serious nose with some balsamic, minty notes, and aromas of licorice, cedar wood, smoke, cigar ash, a mixture of red and black fruit, and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon. It feels more Atlantic than Mediterranean. The palate is round and elegant, with great acidity, amulti-dimensional character, and a very long finish. 22,500 bottles were filled. Drink 2014-2028. Yes, this is one of the oldest wineries in Rioja, created back in the 19th century, and they keep their traditions, but now but each wine is selected from specific plots, something that they have done since the year 2000, a year that marked a big change in the winery. I feel more balance and better integration of the oak with the wine in recent vintages. I really liked the wines I tasted and was very excited to be shown a tank sample of the 1986 Castillo de Ygay Gran Reserva Blanco. Yes, you have read it correctly, it was a tank sample which is waiting to be bottled after almost 21 years in wood and 6 years in tank that will be released sometime in the future. I simply loved it. It has great complexity, freshness, elegance, power and acidity. I look forward to tasting (and drinking!) this wine once bottled! There will be 15,000 bottles of this wine, but they’ll have to last for 8 years, because the next vintage will be 1994. More on this next time round. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Rich, ripe flavors of blackberry and black cherry mingle with savory notes of licorice, tobacco and clove in this plush, lively red. Features a generous texture, with enough acidity for balance and freshness. Drink now through 2022. 411 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add