The 2005 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben, tasted from cask, was very slow to evolve, says Brundlmayer, but it is certainly giving a fine account of itself now. Aromas of licorice, flowers, and toasted pistachio lead to a satisfying colloquy of pit fruits and diverse mineral shadings on the palate. The finish of peach, flowers, licorice, and mineral salts is clear and expressive. Any botrytis here has had no undue influence. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The purest Riesling flavors are to be found in this great wine. At this stage, it is still very tight and closed up, but there is so much leashed power there, along with complex hints of fruits, minerals and exotic perfumes. Give it at least five years, and it will begin to slowly evolve.——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 95