The 2008 Clos de l’Oratoire (13.5% natural alcohol, and the same blend) is brilliant, a top-notch effort for the vintage. From the estate’s 25-acre vineyard planted on clay and limestone soils, this wine has a dense plum/purple color and a sweet kiss of mulberry, black cherry and cassis, with some subtle barbecue smoke and leafy underbrush notes. Medium to full-bodied, opulent and fleshy, this wine (Stephane Derenoncourt is the consultant) is already drinking beautifully and will continue to do so for 10 or more years.