The 2006 Riesling Steinmassel betrays its breezy, high altitude, Urgestein origins in its strong grapefruit and lime citricity, pungent minerality, and subtly shriveled fruit sense of airy lightness (despite its density) and penetrating acidity. Fennel, sage, and buddleia wafting throughout put one in mind of Heiligenstein. Acid freaks and rock hounds will take particular delight in this rather extreme and vintage atypical Riesling. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Soft and finely perfumed, this is full-bodied Riesling, adding just a touch of sweetness to the pear and white currant fruit flavors. This is a great vintage of this wine, probably the best since 2002.——R.V.(12/31/2007)—— 91