The Bordeaux-styled wines begin with the 2003 Merlot “Seven Hills Vineyard.” Composed of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc and aged in 35% new French oak, this dark ruby-colored wine emits a complex bouquet of spice box, menthol, cassis, and cherry. Velvety on the palate, it delivers oodles of sweet fruit, superior depth, and outstanding length. This hedonistic Merlot can be enjoyed now through 2020. I also tasted several outstanding 2005 barrel samples including a sensational Petit Verdot “McClellan Vineyard” which the winery claims will be bottled separately and not blended. As I have mentioned elsewhere in this report, there is immense potential for Petit Verdot in eastern Washington. Tel. (509) 529-7198; www.sevenhillswinery.com

Tart, tight, compact and almost dramatically austere when first opened, this estate-grown Merlot unwraps with pretty scents of blueberry pie, followed by clean flavors of blackberry and cassis. The compactness of the wine suggests that it will continue to evolve and merit a higher score in another year or so. For now, you will find intriguing suggestions of gravel and graphite, and the mix of rocks and blue fruits promises more interesting development down the road. Meanwhile, air it out. ——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 88