The 2007 Aglianico is a rich, hearty red bursting with dark fruit, herbs and spices. Sweet herbs, mint and licorice come to life on the finish. Today the wine is a little rough around the edges, and ideally another year or so in bottle should do the trick. The score could go up here if the wine comes together in the bottle. Given the purity of the fruit, the likelihood for that to happen seems pretty high. This unoaked Aglianico from Mastroberardino is a terrific effort at this price point. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Mastroberardino has created an easygoing Aglianico with defined aromas of wild berry, spice, resin and black pepper. The wine is lean and compact in the mouth with a streamlined feel and a crisp, bright finish.——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 87