The 2008 Aglianico emerges from the glass with lovely inner sweetness. Juicy super ripe cherries, earthiness, dried herbs and tobacco come together in a dark, sensual wine that fully captures the pedigree of this great southern variety. Readers who want to discover the essence of Aglianico without spending a fortune may want to start here. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine. These entry-level selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania’s myriad indigenous red and white grape varieties.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This is a very correct and straightforward Aglianico that delivers all the basic promises of the variety. There’s firmness and deep structure here, but the wine is also flush with chewy fruit, tobacco, leather and dusty mineral tones on the close.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 88