Scents of lemon zest, peppermint, sage, resin, and apricot in the (70% Ottonel) Weinbach 2004 Muscat d’Alsace lead to a pungent, bracing, and blessedly dry mouthful of ripe and refreshing fruit with a charming, invigorating finish. I’d opt for enjoying this delightfully classic Muscat in the Spring and Summer 2008. (The low-toned 2005 version lacked this 2004’s aromatic diversity or verve.)The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802